I have been doing a lot since May, it’s just not posted yet. I’ll be doing that. But first, let’s talk about boxes.
Recently I took my first-ever professional woodworking course — after 30 years, I know, it’s about time! This was a treat because it was taught by Erik Curtis, of YouTube fame, and the name of the class was “Everything is a Box”. The idea was that people showed up, designed and made a box over a weekend.
It was held at Goggleworks in Reading, PA, which is a great venue and I highly recommend them. Erik was a great instructor/inspirer and the class was kept small (under 10) so everyone got a lot of 1 on 1 time with him.
For my part, I had two goals for my box:
The design was actually inspired by Erik directly. He had recently posted this video about making a custom coffee table with a friend in the UK, and the legs particularly intrigued me. I imagined taking that shape an miniaturizing it to hold a small box inside. Erik liked it too, so that’s what I did.
I picked up a starter kit with maple pieces for the box and some spare walnut from the table to make the crossed arcs. Erik and I consulted on the look and my goals, and we decided this box doesn’t really need a lid (or, truthfully, we couldn’t come up with a design for one that didn’t look slapped on), but I put a little walnut around the top edges to the box would have a little color.
I cut out the box parts using normal power tools (table saw, mostly) and used the planer to get my walnut down to 1/4″ thick. True to my goals, I smoothed the box sides and rounded over the top with hand planes after getting a tutorial from Erik on proper sharpening — I really needed to up my game on that.
For the crossed arcs, I got to use Erik’s Shaper Origin, which is a fascinating piece if equipment and I immediately wished I’d spent money on that instead of the CNC I have at home. I may still sell my CNC and put the proceeds toward a Shaper Origin, it was that good an experience. Erik did the design for me and loaded it onto the Shaper, so all I had to do was cut it out, miter the corners, and hand sand it. Which I did, and I finished constructing the box on Sunday. Here it is:
As you can see, it was rushed and not what I really wanted. I was too worried about making the Sunday deadline, and it showed. The uneven nature of the roundovers on the top, the poor-fitting miters on the frame; sure, the sides of the box were smooth as all get-out but it was definitely a substandard performance. It made me unhappy to look at it and it was embarrassing to hold it up next to some of the other students’ boxes. So, when I cleared the other projects out of the garage, I revisited this design.
For materials, I had a bunch of spalted hackberry that I’d gotten for my birthday (when I was still rehabbing the shoulder) and not used yet, and I had a couple boards of paduak still, so I used those.
Goggleworks had provided maple that was already planed to 1/2 inch and cut into 12-inch long pieces, but this time I went with a 3-foot length of hackberry about 5 inches wide and took that whole thing down to 1/2 inch thickness. Then I cut it to width, but left the long piece as it was for now. I cut a 30-degree bevel into the top and glued a long strip of 1/4″ paduak to it.
Then I cut my box sides from that one piece. I kept all the dimensions the same except the thickness of the paduak (originally 1/8″, I made it 1/4 instead) and I was able to wrap the grain around and it actually met nicely on the fourth corner. I rabbeted for the bottom and cut miters in the corners, and it fit together nicely. My block plane did a decent job on the wild-grained paduak, but the hackberry wanted to chip and splinter no matter how carefully I handled the smoothing plane, so I smoothed it by sanding instead.
Then it was time to cut the crossed curves. I didn’t have Erik’s drawing but I had seen how he did it, so I made my own and used a 1/8″ compression bit to cut it out on the CNC. It’s not precisely identical to the walnut one, but it’s pretty close — just a little bit taller. The miters fit exceptionally well on the corners, though, so after a good sanding (by hand) I glued them on and carefully made sure the corners all fit together nicely.
Once all the glue was dry, I had a little Arm-R-Seal left over from a recent project so I just used that on both pieces.
I am way happier with the second iteration! It’s not that different from the first, I just took more time and care in the execution. Construction time for this was a total of about 7 hours over two days, so I could have done this during class and I didn’t need to be in as big a hurry as I was.
As Erik himself said, “I’ve found those are the places I’ve learned the most–when I can revisit a thing that pushed me and really digest what worked and what didn’t and apply those lessons to a new iteration. Well done.”
Thanks, Erik!
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